Day 3: the not so common pea
The, not so common, pea steals the show here in Nigella’s Chicken and Pea Traybake. And what I mean by ‘not so common’ is that this little every day, sweet pulse becomes something so much more.
I don’t suppose I’ve ever really given any thought to the many uses of peas. I, personally, tend to avoid garden peas like the plague, often finding them hard and floury, and will always sub them for a side salad, or more preferably - the favourite fish-supper side - the mushy pea, when I happen to see them on a menu. I hate to waste food, but I am that person that shamefully leaves this kind of green on my plate if they find their way on there without me knowing.
Petit pois, however, are in a league of their own. They are, and have been throughout my childhood, the family go-to vegetable and are often seen gracing our table several nights each week. Again, plainly boiled in salty water and served with butter. They do make their way into pasta sauces sure, but as for cooking them any other way - it never even crossed my mind. So, to see Nigella cooking them in the oven - and under chicken, got my interest.
Nigella’s Chicken & Pea Traybake
Now there is absolutely nothing risky about this dish, to me, so I’m not necessarily braving new flavours - but I am using petit pois in a way I probably never would have otherwise considered. I also found myself needing simplicity, ease, comfort and satisfaction this evening. I mean what’s not to like? We love chicken, peas, leeks, salt and of course - vermouth; the new liquid essential in my kitchen, very much thanks to Nigella. The concept of the peas braising in vermouth and chicken juices, as they ooze out of the thighs, had me salivating at the very thought, and - results didn’t disappoint.
In recent years I have become somewhat fond of the brussels sprout, and find each year that I begin to eat them earlier in the build up to Christmas Day. I added brussels to this, fresh from the stalk. Their bitterness did echo throughout the peas and the juices, and I think next time - if I were to include them - I would add them in about half way through the cooking time as to hold on to their crunch and control the amount their strong flavour can emanate into the other ingredients. It is also the over-cooking of brussels, much like the over-boiled ghastly brown/green version served at school Christmas Dinners, that can cause the bitterness.
The steam released from the vegetables as they cooked, kept the chicken perfectly moist and packed with flavour - while ensuring the skin remained pleasurably crispy.
Flavour musings
The peas here transform into sweet pellets of intense succulence. Imagine the juices, or drippings, from a freshly roasted chicken, concentrated and then infused into this deliciously sweet pulse - divine. Balanced perfectly by the aromatic richness from the garlic and vermouth. From the first time I cooked this, and my mind remains unchanged, I said that frozen peas and chicken thighs would become my new freezer staple.
The recipe for Nigella’s Chicken and Pea Traybake can be found in At My Table and on nigella.com (link below).
