Day 31: swapping bivalves

When it comes to shellfish, I need no convincing: I am unapologetically defenceless against their allure. If I were to live by the coast, they would comprise my entire nourishment - dietary complications be damned. That being said, I do have my limits. I love cooked oysters, but I am unable to tolerate the squelchy texture of raw ones, which also probably means I wouldn’t enjoy uncooked clams, cockles, or others molluscs either. So, for transparency, let’s say that I love cooked shellfish.

Luckily, for me - and you, as you now know you can read on to more positive contemplations - this pick for 365 Days of Nigella did involve cooking the shellfish, today taking its form as cockles in Nigella’s Sardian Couscous with Clams.

Nigella’s Sardinian Couscous with Clams

Notice above I did say cockles, this was not in error. I had ordered clams from the local fishmongers but, due to the current circs, they did not arrive in stock, which is obviously perfectly understandable. He did, however, have a lovely net of fresh cockles. I believe these bivalves share a similar taste, but I do know enough about, nor have I tasted, all of the variations within each species, to be able to state with fact, whether they are or are not, a good substitute. But, to me, they were more than adequate and my fishmonger did assure me so too. I do know, that cockles have a more heart-shaped profile when viewed from the side, but this probably offers very little contribution in determining their difference in taste to clams.

I’ve not cooked cockles in their shells before. I am more familiar with the pre-cooked versions, already plucked from their shells, which I recall so fondly from weekends at my grandparents. My grandad used to take a trip to Billingsgate Fish Market in London during the early hours of a morning every few weeks or so, and return with a beautiful selection of fish and shellfish. At lunchtime, he would put out bowls of cockles and whelks doused in vinegar and showered with white pepper, and from the table, I could see a big black bucket sitting on the patio, which I knew contained the night’s dinner of fresh mussels: in waiting to be cooked, by my Nan, with white wine and cream and served with crusty white bread and butter.

So, the smell, and indeed the taste, takes me back to a very fond time in my life.

I cut the recipe in half here for two of us, which we gratefully devoured at lunchtime with the aid of some fresh bread to soak up the tomatoey, umami liquor. I think I had fregola in a restaurant once, but I definitely did not appreciate what I was eating; it has a wonderful nutty taste and texture - I’m guessing from the pre-packing, toasting process.

I usually opt for cream-based shellfish dishes, so to try this tomato-based version, with the added excitement of fregola, was a new venture for sure. Needless to say, I enjoyed this very much.

Flavour musings

The more I learn about food, the more I feel I can put my finger on the elements that bring me the greatest comfort. Before I embarked on this cookalong, I knew nothing of umami, and now I realise that the tastes and smells that evoke the greatest comfort, for me, contain foods that fall within that section of the flavour spectrum. An interesting realisation, that I look forward to exploring more.