Day 14: another anchovy showdown

I thought, and perhaps rather too naively, that it was time to take on uncooked/cold anchovies. A showdown between man (me) and the mysterious, to this house anyway, anchovy. I adore, and I mean adore, them in Nigella’s Gemelli with Anchovies, Tomatoes and Mascarpone, to the point I have lost count how many times I have fabricated this delightful combination into to what is now a household favourite. Unfortunately, I could not share this same adoration with today’s pick for the Nigella cookalong.

Now, please remember, these are my culinary reflections. They are not criticisms, or doubts about the recipe, they are simply my views on my tastes and what I like, and equally, don’t like. After all, 365 Days of Nigella was executed to challenge the unknown and discover the new. But also believe when I say - I take no pride in disliking something.

I implore you not to be put off by this introduction, nothing horrendous is on it’s way, but I do not think I was personally ready, just yet, for Nigella’s Sicilian Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic and Almonds, which indeed did not involve cooking the anchovies.

Nigella’s Sicilian Pasta with Tomatoes, Garlic and Almonds

It was the quirky depiction of the 70’s phone-cord-like fusilli lunghi in Nigellissima that caught my attention. I’ve had the book for some years now, but it was probably the presence of anchovies in the recipe that put me off to be honest, although I am fully aware that Nigella suggests pecorino as an alternative, which I believe is used in most pesto alla Trapanese recipes - although I am no expert here so that may be an entirely inaccurate statement.

It’s an intriguing list of ingredients, including golden sultanas and anchovies - a combination not even concocted in my wildest of dreams. But, if there is one thing that I am learning on this journey, it is to give everything a shot at least once, before claiming with any sincerity that I do not like it.

Improvised leftovers (also, in fact, Nigella-inspired)

This is a very quick dish to make, an easy recipe to follow, and I think the pasta-type is a lot of fun. As for the anchovy pesto alla Trapanese, and I wont make any attempt to hide the truth here, I kind of shuddered as I ate it. I did, however, persevere and I cannot say I disliked it, but neither can I say I enjoyed it tremendously.

I used the full amounts instructed for the pesto, but halved the amount of pasta as it was just the two of us, and kept the remaining pesto in the fridge. The following day, I fried some halved cherry tomatoes in olive oil, added the leftover pesto and cooked this on high for a bit, before adding a generous splosh of dry vermouth to ferociously simmer away for a few minutes. I then tossed through a freshly cooked batch of fusilli lunghi, some parmesan (Italy, please forgive me) and a good bunch of finely chopped parsley. The crunch of the almonds was still in good form and I enjoyed a second helping greedily, and gratefully.

Flavour musings

At first I thought it was the uncooked anchovies that were too much for me, but on continued tasting I actually think it was the tomatoes. To me, it was kind of like a thick, crunchy gazpacho, and I dislike gazpacho very much. There is something about raw pureed tomatoes that is an offense to my senses, particular to smell and taste. However, I did like the sweetness from the sultanas, the crunch from the almonds (this is new to me in pasta) and indeed the saltiness of the anchovies and the punch from the garlic.

I cannot win them all, but I do think most things deserve a second chance, so, perhaps we will revisit this one further down the line.